A Ride on the #7 Train (Western Section: Manhattan to Woodside)

Put on a pair of comfortable walking shoes, take a ride on an elevated subway and follow me on a Globetrot Gourmet tour of the place I call home, Queens, New York.

*** During weekends and nights, always check subway status for the #7 and all subway trains by visiting www.MTA.info. The #7 is undergoing a complete replacement of the signaling system, so weekend service is frequently disrupted. Furthermore, ongoing repairs in some under-river tubes  due to superstorm Sandy  also re-route trains onto different routes, so the train you you need take along 8th Ave, for example, might be running along 6th Ave instead.***

The borough of Queens, the world's boro, has been touted the most ethnically diverse urban area in the world. Who am I to argue? Different sources agree that almost 200 languages from just about as many countries are represented here. Nearly half of Queens’ residents claim a language other than English as their native tongue, with nearly a quarter of Queens’ residents claiming Spanish as their native tongue. And although there are several subway lines that go into this eclectic borough, the most interesting way, by far is the “International Express,” better known as the #7 train. Historically, the 7 went from Times Square to Flushing, but a few years ago it was extended to the west to Hudson Yards, a new development over the LIRR train yard, terminating at 11^th Ave and 34^th St, serving the Jacob Javitz Convention Center and the pleasure-cruise piers of the West Side. A popular feature about the line is, once it lands in Queens, it makes the rest of its run on an elevated track above the neighborhoods I will discuss here. And being an elevated track, sightseers like to ride the 7 just to see the resurgence of “street art.” Ironic how #GRAFFITI has almost become ‘cool’ in the new millennium.

The #7 train is a 3 track line beginning in Manhattan, passing through several distinct and unique neighborhoods, terminating in northern Queens in the pan-Asian enclave of Flushing, going past CitiField (the home of the New York Mets), and the stadiums of the US Open in Flushing Meadows/Corona Park (the home of the 1934-1935 and 1964-1965 Worlds Fair). It provides inbound express service (to Manhattan) in the AM hours and outbound express service for the evening rush, If you take the express out to Queens during the PM rush, the only return is local. Furthermore, the train can get very crowded, both directions and at any hour, day or night, despite its frequency. So if you are beginning your journey in Manhattan on the east side at 5^th or Lexington Avenues and going for the long-haul to Flushing and want to get a seat, it would be wise to ride west to Times Square to get comfy.

Once you are in Queens, the train makes its first stops in Long Island City. You may get off at Vernon/Jackson and walk west a few blocks to Gantry Plaza State Park along the long-abandoned industrial waterfront, now turned into innovative park space with million dollar views of the midtown Manhattan and the United Nations complex. (A gantry is a mechanism at the docks that lifts the individual containers off the ships onto rail cars). A popular photo-op of the park is the huge Pepsi-Cola sign, visible from the Manhattan side. Many new and deluxe residential towers are also found along the park. The East River is now not nearly polluted as it was back in the shipping days, so the piers are popular places to go fishing. In the park is a scaling table with a constant current of clean fresh water in a narrow channel. You can scale your catch, gut, eviscerate and fillet, as well, so you don’t have to muck up your kitchen at home. All the waste from the table flows directly into the river serving as chum to attract more fish. I wish I would have thought of that!

Smattered with older row-houses and renovated industrial and warehouse space turned condos and lofts, the proximity of this neighborhood to Manhattan, and the short commute involved, cold and dreary Long Island City is now a hotspot for the hip and trendy (and wealthy) millennials. Like its Williamsburg, Brooklyn counterpart, also along the waterfront, it is a hotbed of new and exciting eateries, BBQ joints, seafood shacks and re-vamped classic diners.

Continuing on the 7 train takes you to Queensboro Plaza, where the N and the W give the 7 a little peck on the cheek before they turn north to Astoria. The next neighborhood east is Sunnyside. Although, historically known as an Irish-American neighborhood, recent years have seen it turn into a more and more Irish one. Old-timers have kept the watering holes open, menus have been brought up-to-date, so these places would now be called “Gastro Pubs.”

A wrong turn on my part took me past The Butcher's Block, at 43-46 41^st St, just north of Queens Blvd. Access via the 40^th St/Lowery station on the 7, open 7 days, 8a-9p. When I saw it I immediately looked for a parking spot to take a look. Maybe they sold veal sweetbreads, I was thinking.  Just inside to the right is a deli case selling prepared foods which at first glance made it appear to be a kosher deli more than a butcher shop, so no sweetbreads. But the presence of a roast ham in the case was a more than subtle hint that this place is definitely NOT kosher. I was intrigued by the selection of cooked foods, and to the left the butcher case selling raw meats, sausages and the like. Aha, sausages. The best way to identify a culture is to explore their tube-steaks. And displayed very proudly I saw bangers, black and white pudding, rashers and pre-packaged fixin’s for a “full brekkie”. A slow stroll along the aisles reveals an abundance of grocery items from Ireland and the UK in general. Pre-packaged goods like treacle, Lyles Golden Syrup (try THAT on your buttered crumpets!), spotted dick and other “sticky pudding” items, HP Sauce, salad “creams,” self-raising flours for biscuits, scones and other breads. Branston Pickle, Bisto sauce granules, Byrd’s Custard Powder, rich Devon creams and hundreds of other items that would make ex-pats cry for Mummy.

Then the Superior Supermarket at 40-08 Queens Blvd, worth mentioning because of the huge selection of beer boasted in the front window. Also around that stretch of Queens Blvd or a short walk north, a there is a sprinkling of Turkish, Armenian, Japanese restaurants and markets and bakeries. Plus the fact that the neighborhood has more recently become the home of growing communities of Ecuadorean, Colombian, Chinese, Korean, Bangladeshi and Mexican immigrants makes Sunnyside an interesting destination for market-hoppers like me. So, get off the 7 train at 40^th/Lowery, pop into Taiyo Foods Japanese Grocery Store at 45-08 44^th St, or venture north to the Romanian Garden restaurant at 43rd and 43rd, then 1 more block north on Skillman Ave and 47th St is Turkiyem Market, a teeny cramped little market with a very friendly staff selling a few sweet and savory delectables near the register, all delicious and at very good prices. Something I recommed you sample the gözleme. Paper thin flatbread cooked on a griddle, filled with seasoned meat, spinach or cheese and folded secure to keep in the filling. It has a lovely silken texture that flops in your hands like a warm moist hand towel. They simply fold it up, place it in a plastic sac, ready to tear off little pieces as you continue to your next snack stop. You can then rejoin the 7 train at the next station, 46^th St/Bliss, back at Queens Blvd. to continue your globetrot.

Leaving the 46^th St/Bliss Station, the 7 train veers left onto Roosevelt Ave. Due east is the neighboring community of Woodside, with similarities to Sunnyside if only for the abundance of old-timers Irish pubs finding popularity with newly arrived Irish settlers. I advise you to hop off the train at the 61st St./Woodside station and begin walking east, following the ''el'' for the next few paragraphs, to save yourself multiple subway fares. Donovan’s Pub at 57-24 Roosevelt Ave, back-tracking from the 61^st St/Woodside station, has long been a neighborhood favorite for beer and burgers, along with Shepherd’s Pie and Fish & Chips.  Or walk further along its route east to 65^th St, then veer left onto 39^th Ave to SriPraPhai Thai Restaurant at 64-19 39^th Ave. (11:30am-9:30pm, closed Wednesdays.) OK. You will just have to take my word on this one until I publish my full review on this one later on. But the know-it-all dares say it is the best Thai Restaurant in the entire country, none barred. Has been for over 20 years! This formerly modest establishment used to advertise themselves on the storefront selling desserts and sweets with bright fluorescent lighting, formica tables and Corelle dishes has trebled in size, including an attractive backyard patio and fountain. The restaurant has stood through the slump years, lurking on a side-street of a poor immigrant area, during a time when no-one really knew what Thai cuisine was, and now finds itself a true destination in the neighborhood, which is now a hotbed of hipster and millennial locales. They only accept cash, so be sure to visit an ATM before you go, and take a little extra out because they have a marvelous selection of sweets, desserts and snacks to take away with you, after all, that was what put them on the map in the first place. Just across the street is a little Thai grocery store if you need to pick up some hard-to-find pantry essentials.

The Korean community that used to call Woodside home is dwindling as they move further east on the #7 train to Flushing, and further eastward along Northern Blvd. into the more affluent areas of Bayside and Little Neck, on the border with Nassau County, Long Island. Thus, Downtown Flushing and Northern Blvd. is lined with marvellous Asian eateries of all types: Dumpling Houses, Noodle restaurants and barbecue joints. Back in Woodside, there has always been an understated Filipino community, to the point, many refer to it as, "Little Manila," centered near the 61st-69th St. Stations on the 7 train. Just the appearance of the storefront sign at the Phil-Am Market, 4003 70th St, Woodside, at Roosevelt Ave. hints that the market has graced this location for decades. This little Filipino enclave was more a destination to ex-pat Filipinos than to foodies until the last decade or so, as Woodside has seen a surge of different types of restaurants, noodle houses, barbecues. There is even a Jollybee at 63rd St. and Roosevelt. This is a very popular (and quite yummy, I will add) fast-food chain specializing in burgers, fried chicken, spaghetti, halo-halo shaved ice with toppings and other Filipino delights. Like Mickey D's, the Colonel and mall-court spaghetti all rolled up into one, but better, all of it!

But here is the most intriguing thing about Woodside and its neighbor to the east, Jackson Heights. Side by side with its large Indian, Pakistani and Bangladesh communities, recent years have shown tremendous growth of a Nepali, Tibetan and Bhutanese community. Seriously, Bhutan? Seriously, Bhutan! I have always liked to say that in Queens you can find anything. But neither Nepal, Tibet not Bhutan had ever crossed my mind. But even these, what I consider the most remote places on the face of planet Earth, have an community in Queens, a home away from home. So, you might ask yourself, "What is Himalayan cuisine?" I invite you to look at a map. The cuisine of these countries is borrowed from their neighbors. You will see dishes that are innately Indian influenced with the spices used. The rice is decidedly Basmati, which originates in the foothills of the Himalayas, in India and Pakistan. Bok choy, tofu, pork belly, chow mein and other sautéed noodles, momos and other dumplings are a nod to their Chinese neighbors, while rich or bony meats like beef shank, pork ribs and pork belly, and soups made with real bone broth, rich in collagen, vitamin and other beneficial nutrients, is simply medicine for the soul to warm the heart on a chilly winter day. And although yak milk is not very stable for transport, several restaurants feature yak meat in sautés and serve yak butter tea. Hey! I will try anything once! I did, and it will probably be only the once.

I am sure you have seen many Mexican, Ecuadorian and Colombian restaurants by this point. Well, just a short trek further east along Roosevelt Ave takes you to the neighborhood of Jackson Heights. I will continue a new post beginning with this exciting neighborhood. A Ride on the #7 Train (Eastern Section) will follow.

If only the MTA would sell the unlimited One-Day Fun Pass once again. An unlimited pass is available for 7 days. Definitely worth the purchase if you ride the subway or buses more than 11 1/4 times. Stay tuned for my next article, A Ride on the 7 Train-Eastern Section. #7 Train